Saturday, 20 February 2016

Staff announcement

Picasa : exit
Recently I received some rather disturbing information: the Picasa software, in which I have produced tens if not hundreds of photo albums, will most likely ceased to exist in the near future, and will be replaced by Google Photos.
Because it is not entirely clear what is going to happen exactly, I have occupied myself for a while reorganising (which was no bad thing anyway) and renaming my old Picasa albums into Google Photos, and consequently changing all links to albums on my maps with Romanesque churches as well as the links in this blog.
A hell of a job, and it is not unlikely that I have missed some links, which obviously will not work anymore. Any constructive comments on this matter will be appreciated.

The links can be found on the following blogs:
Blog NL Romaanse bouwkunst in Bourgogne
Blog GB : Romanesque Architecture in Burgundy

Google Photos : enter
More links can be found on the following maps with Romanesque churches:

Bourgogne:
Département Côte-d'Or (21)
Département Nièvre (58)
Département Saône-et-Loire (71)
Département Yonne (89)

Bordering Bourgogne (an arbitrary choice):
Département Ain (01
Département Allier (3)
Département Aube (10)
Département Cher (18)
Départementen Jura & Haute-Saône (39 & 70)
Département Loire (42)
Département Loiret (45)
Département Haute-Marne (52)
Département Rhône (69)
Département Seine-et-Marne (77)

Other maps:
Romaanse kerken in Europe (an arbitrary choice):
Site Clunisiens in Europe
Byzantine churches in Europe and the Middle East (an arbitrary choice):

Friday, 19 February 2016

Picturealbums (for map of Europe) per French department

01R Ain (absent)
02R Aisne
03R Allier
04R Alpes-de-Haute-Provence
05R Hautes-Alpes
06R Alpes-Maritimes (absent)
07R Ardèche
08R Ardennes
09R Ariège
10R Aube

11R Aude
12R Aveyron
13R Bouches-du-Rhône
14R Calvados
15R Cantal
16R Charentes
17R Charente-Maritime
18R Cher
19R Corrèze
20R Corse

21R Côte-d'Or
22R Côtes-d'Armor
23R Creuse
24R Dordogne
25R Doubs (absent)
26R Drôme
27R Eure
28R Eure-et-Loir
29R Finistère
30R Gard

31R Haute-Garonne
32R Gers
33R Gironde
34R Hérault
35R Ille-et-Vilaine
36R Indre
37R Indre-et-Loire
38R Isère
39R Jura (absent)
40R Landes

41R Loir-et-Cher
42R Loire
43R Haute-Loire
44R Loire-Atlantique
45R Loiret
46R Lot
47R Lot-et-Garonne
48R Lozère
49R Maine-et-Loire
50R Manche

51R Marne
52R Haute-Marne
53R Mayenne
54R Meurthe-et-Moselle (absent)
55R Meuse
56R Morbihan
57R Moselle
58R Nièvre
59R Nord
60R Oise

61R Orne
62R Pas-de-Calais
63R Puy-de-Dôme
64R Pyrenées-Atlantiques
65R Hautes-Pyrénées
66R Pyrénées-Orientales
67R Bas-Rhin
68R Haut-Rhin
69R Rhône
70R Haute-Saône

71R Saône-et-Loire (absent)
72R Sarthe
73R Savoie
74R Haute-Savoye (absent)
75R Paris (absent)
76R Seine-Maritime
77R Seine-et-Marne
78R Yvelines
79R Deux-Sèvres
80R Somme (absent)

81R Tarn
82R Tarn-et-Garonne
83R Var (absent)
84R Vaucluse
85R Vendée
86R Vienne
87R Haute-Vienne
88R Vosges
89R Yonne
90R Belfort (absent)

91R Essone
92R Hauts-de-Seine
93R Seine-Saint-Denis (absent)
94R Val-de-Marne (absent)
95R Val d'Oise

Monday, 8 February 2016

The Golden Hour

Years ago, in February 2007 to be precise, we made a picture of the Romanesque church of Ameugny, using a small Olympus point-and-shoot camera. The colours of this picture were quite superb; it seemed like the church was bathing in a golden glow.

The church of Ameugny, 15 February 2007 17h20
However, the quality of the picture was quite low (72 dpi, good enough for internet use, but too poor to make prints), and since we got a request of an acquaintance to deliver some pictures of Cormatin and surroundings to be blown up and framed, I decided to dig in my archives in search of higher quality pictures. That turned out to be not too difficult; most of the more recent pictures were taken with a Nikon D50 or D90, they were sufficiently big and had a 300 dpi value.

The church of Ameugny, 2 December 2012 15h54
Only, the golden glow was missing. Since my better half has been heavily involved in photography last year, the term "The Golden Hour" has been discussed quite frequently. Not that I really believed in the rather euphoric description of pictures taken during that magic hour, but one never knows. The picture taken in February 2007 was indeed from around 17h00, an hour the sun is really low in the sky.

The church of Ameugny, 21 January 2016 15h10
According to her the sun is very low in January anyway, hence she saw no reason why it would not be possible to reproduce that picture around 15h00. That was just as easily said as it was done. However, even though the colours were marginally less dull than those of the older pictures taken with the D50 and D90 (most of them taken in the summer, during the day), I was not really impressed with the result.

The church of Ameugny, 21 January 2016 16h44
So, on one of the few sunny days in January around 17h00 we went back to Ameugny, and took again some pictures. After comparing the photographs, it looked like the golden hour certainly exists: the picture from early February 2007 and from late January 2016 were, in terms of colour, almost identical.
For those who are like a doubting Thomas: look, compare and be convinced!

Saturday, 7 November 2015

Because we had an hour to spare

Notre-Dame - La Rochepot
The day we were going to see, in this order, Saint-Sernin-du-Bois (museum), Dracy-lès-Couches (church ruins in the middle of nowhere) and Collonge-la-Madeleine (church interior) there was quite a big time slot between the one but last and the last place.

Château - La Rochepot
Waiting for over an hour in the burning sun, or looking for a terrace which are rathe scarce in this area, or trying to find still another church in area where we seemed to have seen everything was no real option. However, when I had a look at the map, I noticed that we were very near the Côte d'Or, and even better, near La Rochepot. And La Rochepot had a church we did not know yet!


Annunciation
And that is how we ended up in La Rochepot, well before 14h00, where we easily found the church which I had only seen once from the high-up Château La Rochepot (well worth a visit as well, by the way). we were lucky; the church was open, and the capitals in the church were well worth the trip.

Balaam and the angel
A number of them tell a story, others have foliage or animal motifs. The church itself is interesting, the inside as well as the outside. And, from the grave yard, one looks up at the very picturesque château. After having visited the church, we were still well in time for our appointment at the mairie in Collonge-la-Madeleine!

Notre-Dame chevet
Click here for the website of La Tuilerie de Chazelle.

Saturday, 10 October 2015

Mont-Saint-Vincent – Musée Archéologique Jean Régnier

The museum is open between April and Oktober, Saturdays and Sundays from 15h00 till 18h00, and is free as well.

The museum
The collection of this tiny museum consists of amongst others a Merovingian sarcophagus from Curtil-sous-Burnand, a number of small and larger pieces of flint stone and some old coins, whilst the first floor is dedicated to Romanesque architecture.
The first time we visited this museum was with a big group of people of the Tourist Office in Saint-Gengoux.

Open!
During this first, very brief visit we thought that the first floor had not much more but a collection of scale models, drawings and photographs of the churches of Mont-Saint-Vincent and Gourdon. Still, the maker of Bourgogne Romane thought that there might be more Romanesque stuff in this museum.

Ground floor
From a completely different blog it may be clear that we had undertaken another attempt to pay a second visit to this museum.

First floor
Finally we decided to try out luck once more, this time on our way back from a visit to a former brick factory in Ciry-le-Noble. This time we hit the jackpot. The museum was open, and the ground floor certainly had no Romanesque items, hence we decided to look upstairs. At the bottom of the stairs there were two light switches, taped off with cello tape and a notice saying "Do not touch!".

The chair
It looked as if switching on the lights might cause a short circuit somewhere. Hence we had to investigate the top floor with the light shining through the windows. The scale models, drawings and pictures were still there, but in a dark corner we found a kitchen chair with three pieces of stone and a sign telling us that these were "Rare remains of the priory". Next to it, on a wooden pedestal, there was a modillon with an Atlante.

75 % of the collection
According to Wikipedia: In classical European architecture, an atlas (also known as an atlant, or atlante or atlantid; plural atlantes) is a support sculpted in the form of a man, which may take the place of a column, a pier or a pilaster. The term atlantes is the Greek plural of the name Atlas – the Titan who was forced to hold the sky on his shoulders for eternity.
So this appeared to be the whole Romanesque collection of the museum. However, one has to admit that a museum where the Romanesque remains easily fit on a kitchen chair is certainly something special!

The remaining 25%
Click here for the website of La Tuilerie de Chazelle.

Saturday, 26 September 2015

Paray-le-Monial – Chapelle Saint-Michel

The Basilique du Sacré-Cœur in Paray-le-Monial is normally open to the public, with the exception of the Chapelle Sait-Michel above the narthex.

Chapelle Saint-Michel
This chapel is only accessible during a guided tour, each day in July and August at € 5.00 pp. Reason enough to plan a re-visit of the church around these dates and around this hour. The tour starts in the narthex, and goes from there to the chapel, the church itself, the cloister gardens and the renaissance townhall.

Imposte
We had chosen not to go during the weekend, to avoid the crowds. Of course we were not aware, that on our weekday the pilgrims taking part in a number of lectures and readings stretching over a number of days would be given the afternoon off. We were not really the only ones who had taken the tour….

Imposte
An extensive description of church and chapel can be found on Bourgogne Romane. The chapel looks out over the nave and the choir, a sight that can only be enjoyed during a visit like this. The chapel itself is rather sober, but it has a number of impostes each with its own specific decoration.

Imposte
Hint for planning a visit: try to find out when there is a pilgrimage, and try to avoid those days!

Imposte
Click here for the website of La Tuilerie de Chazelle.

Saturday, 12 September 2015

Musée Raymond Rochette – Saint-Sernin-du-Bois

One does not stumble every day on a museum that can only be visited on reservation.

Donjon
We were quite surprised when we found out after a long internet search that we had to make an appointment to see this particular museum. That could be done through one of these internet contact forms, or by phone during an hour on Monday evening that the Association " Amis de Saint-Sernin-du-Bois" was available for consultation. That sounded quite complicated (most older French are still not very internet-competent), and we did not hold out much hope of hearing from the "Amis" after we put in our request on a Saturday.

Capital
Still, never say never, because in the course of Sunday we received an e-mail from one of them, who had been told by the President (well, not Hollande…) to contact us. After this, an appointment was quickly made; we wanted to combine this visit with Dracy-lès-Couches and Collonge la-Madeleine, where the mairie was only open on Monday or Thursday. Like good Dutchmen and -women we were half an hour early in Saint-Sernin, ready to see the museum.

The ground floor
M. Baur, our friendly and knowledgeable tour guide was also, very un-French, half an hour early, hence we did not have to wait very long at all. I had obtained a list of Romanesque matters to look out for from "Deep Throat", which was 100% accurate.

The collection Rochette
After we had looked at and photographed what we wanted to see (some Romanesque stones from Saint-Sernin and Gamay, but also the obligatory old school bench, old coins, obsolete tools, etc.) we were guided upstairs where the real collection of the museum was kept.


Workers at Schneider
Raymond Rochette happened to have been a local artist and painter who had painted a lot in the steel works of Schneider in Montceau-les-Mines; workers, machinery, etc. Not a van Gogh, but we had not expected that. All in all, thanks to these paintings this museum was just a trifle more interesting than the average run of the mill local museum of which every town has at least one. And if this had not been enough: from the roof terrace of the donjon that houses the museum there was a stunning view over the surroundings.

View of church and cemetery
Uitzicht over het kerkhof Click here for the website of La Tuilerie de Chazelle.

Saturday, 29 August 2015

Collonge-la-Madeleine

Eglise Saint-Barthélémy- exterior
The problem with having seen almost all churches in Saône-et-Loire is that the remaining churches are located quite far apart, and hence it is difficult to combine a few churches in one visit. Dracy-lès-Couches is not very far from Collonge-la-Madeleine, hence I could at least combine those two places.

Eglise Saint-Barthélémy- interior
Having learned from previous experiences we had phoned the mairie a few weeks before to find out a) whether they had the key and were willing to hand them to us, and b) whether the mairie was indeed open the day we had planned. And that was a good idea as well. The secretary told us that since she often stayed later than required, she opened the mairie later as well. I was no use to go there at 15h00; before 15h30 there would be nobody there.

Eglise Saint-Barthélémy- interior
Although the timeslot between Dracy and Collonge could be filled with yet another church, we were at the mairie just after three. Fortunately the secretary was also a bit earlier than "normal" so we did not have to wait very long.
And even though the church interior was far from spectacular, it was interesting enough to justify the trip.
The result was also, that another church we had not been able to see from the inside could be scrapped from our to do list!

Eglise Saint-Barthélémy- interior
Click here for the website of La Tuilerie de Chazelle.

Saturday, 15 August 2015

Dracy-lès-Couches

One of the walks around Dracy
On one of our quests in search of Romanesque churches we started to look for the former church of Dracy-lès-Couches (near Couches), or the remains there of. This is what we knew:
Dracy-lès-Couches : vieux-cimetière (East side): pans de mur, tombes. Church has been demolished and was replaced by a new one elsewhere; do not bother to go to the new church.
After having done some research we found that one of the signposted walks around Dracy was passing by this ex-church; we found the walk on the internet and we had even spotted some reference on a map to "Ruines Eglise". One would think that after this information the church should not be difficult to find….

The signpost
Based on the above we went to Dracy in July 2014, and lo and behold, we found a signpost saying "Ruines Eglise 300 m". We slithered down the path (it had been continuously raining for the last few weeks, turning the paths into mud covered tracks) and at approx. 300 m we stopped at a gate, with another very muddy path leading to the left and an overgrown bit of woods on the right. Since the paths were so impassable we decided to stop there, again trying to locate an old cemetery left or right from the path we walked down to go back to the car. No need to say that this did not reveal anything; we decided to wait for the dry season and go back again one day.

The signpost disappeared!
That day came, almost spot on, one year later. Our department had suffered from a severe heat wave for a number of weeks by then, without one drop of rain, hence the paths should be no problem this time. However, the pole where we had seen the sign "Ruines Eglise 300 m" was still there, but the sign had disappeared. Only the fixing clips were still there. The paths were no problem this time, and at what we thought to be roughly the 300 m point we took the path to the right for another 300 m, went back, then went down a dry ditch for 200 m, an turned back again.

The path is on the left, the shrubs with the church and graveyard are on the right
On the point where we had turned off to the left however, there was a heap of old stones on the right hand side, at the bottom of the slightly higher wooded area. I thought that this might well be the "remains" of the church, took a picture of it and was about to walk back to the car. My better half however is blessed with a bit more patience than I can muster, and she had disappeared in between the trees behind "my" heap of stones. After a few minutes she shouted "I found it!".

Tomb
When I climbed the low hill I saw her stooped over some gravestones, hence she had found the cemetery. From "my" heap of stones we then found the foundation of a wall running east-west, and following the foundation we indeed found some heavily overgrown small remains of what must have been the wall of the church. So we had finally found that church! One would say: and, was it worth it? That is debatable, but the picnic we had afterwards certainly was worth the trip!

Part of the church wall
Click here for the website of La Tuilerie de Chazelle.

Saturday, 1 August 2015

Cîteaux

How the French manage to create adjectives which are not or with great difficulty to be traced back to their basis will remain one of life's mysteries.

Abbaye de Cîteaux
A simple example: what are the inhabitants of the Île-de-France called? Franciliens of course! These sort of questions are quite popular in French quiz programs.
Slightly more farfetched is "cistercien", derived of course from Cîteaux, a place not far from Dijon, where the Cistercian monastic (Benedictine) order was founded. This order was at some stage heavily opposed to the Cluniac order, a monastic order, as one might have guessed, from Cluny. Cluny, according to the abbots of Cîteaux, had deviated too far from the rules of Benedict (ora et labora, pray and work).

Abbatiale - Cîteaux
The Cistercian order had, like its Cluniac opposite, many daughters and grand-daughters, of which a number in Provence are still in good order, and there are even a few abbeys operational (such as Sénanque).
The Cistercian monasteries were all built according to a similar plan. One could call them the inventors of modular building. The original Mother monastery Cîteaux ceased to exist around the French revolution, but was reinstated at the end of the 19th Century.

Officie - Cîteaux
Unfortunately almost all mediaeval buildings (such as the abbey church, cloister, etc.) are demolished, and rebuilt in a modern style. Despite this we always had in mind to visit this mother monastery of which we had seen so many daughters. There are organised tours, which can be booked through Internet.
As we had expected, apart from the library and the noviciat there were no other old buildings on the site.


Chapelle - Cîteaux
The tour starts in the reception area, where an excellent photo exhibition gives an overview of the very strict time table for the day as written down by Benedictus. After this introduction to the monastic life an overview is given of where the Cistercians are active nowadays (that is, outside Europe, in countries like Indonesia, the USA, South-America, etc.).
Next is a short visit to the cells on the ground floor of the library, and a more extensive visit to the first floor, which hosts a lovely collection of copies of illuminated letters (the originals are in Dijon).


Library - Cîteaux
The noviciat shows a number of things the monks occupy or occupied themselves with, and finally there was a film about monastic life.
Of the original (wooden) church only the foundation outline (in reinforced concrete) can be seen, and the same goes for the former hospital. In a few words: those interested in the history and development of Cîteaux will be a bit disappointed. Those however interested in the religious background of the monks of Cîteaux are being served well.

Kestrel - Cîteaux
Still, it is an interesting experience wondering around those historical grounds….
Click here for the website of La Tuilerie de Chazelle.

Saturday, 18 July 2015

A revisit

For reasons too complicated to even try to explain (the main reason being curiosity) we decided to pay the Eglise Notre-Dame-de-l'Assomption in Gourdon another visit.

Luxure (lust)
The first time we had heard about this church dates years back, when guests we had staying in one of our gîtes told us that they wanted to visit that church because it was quite extraordinary. We visited the church for the first time also in 2007.
The purpose of this particular visit was to have a good look at the capitals, of which there are approx. 90 present, where I had photographed only 17 on previous visits. On a nice sunny day we packed the car with our picnic gear and drove off to Gourdon.

Monstres anguipèdes (lower part of the body has the form of a snake)
My usual source gave me the following hint: "Gourdon has mainly groups of primitive capitals, with lots of similar lions, monsters, human heads and floral motives, with occasionally a human figure.".

That was correct, however, there is also a handful of capital depicting well-known themes, such as some of the capital sins and other vices, such as lust, temptation, greed, slander, promiscuity.

Monstres léonins à face humaine (lion-like creatures with human faces)
This information, and where to find those particular capitals I found in a brochure available in the church. Apart from those capitals this church also boasts a number of frescoes or what is left of them. The church itself is very light, which makes studying the various decorations relatively easy.
On the outside there is quite a bit of sculpture to be seen as well; there is big number of modillons adorning the roof edges; they show geometrical patterns, but also human and animal heads, floral motives, wood shavings motive, etc.

Modillons
Even the corbels supporting the roof edge of the bell tower (1889!) are richly sculpted.
After having looked around for a good three quarters of an hour we installed our camping table and chairs in the shadow of the church and enjoyed our well-earned picnic. When I got home I still had quite a job sorting out and manipulating between 150 and 200 pictures. And only then I realised that in my eagerness to photograph everything in an organised way that I had missed out on two capitals, in a high window just above the entrance to the church!

Roof edge of the bell tower
Click here for the website of La Tuilerie de Chazelle.